Home again, home again, jiggity jig.

It's been about a week since returning home. Trying to pull some thoughts together on the last few days....

On Tuesday last week, Matt and I were out in front of the hotel early to see the the remaining riders load luggage and head out on their way from Rapid City to Wall, SD. It was bittersweet knowing we'd be going home soon while our friends would continue on to New Hampshire completing their full cross country adventure. They have just a day or two more to get to the halfway mark, but they have all settled into a good routine with stronger legs and deeper tans. They just need to keep focused, watch the road, and enjoy the view.

Angie & Mike (KY) heading out

L-R "League of Nations" 

(Murray & Heather, Australia, Nick, Great Britain)

Katie & her dad, Mike (MT, CA)

Nathan (16) and his dad Ken (MD)

Harry (NY)

Judy (Tour Leader - MA) and Harry (NY) 

Greg (MI)

 Lon (WI)

 Liz (Tour staff - MA)

Darrin (TX) Matt (MD)

Dr. John (FL)

We shook a lot of riders hands, shared a lot of hugs, and good wishes for safe travels. While the gang was heading out in small groups, the FedX truck arrived at the hotel to pick up my bike. It was odd knowing that even my bike taking off without me. Then, just as the FedX truck pulled away, the airpot shuttle pulled up to take us to the car rental so we could take a little meander around the area before heading home Wednesday.

FedEx putting my bike box on truck bound for home.

We decided to take I-90 out of the city to Wall, then take State Road 240 southeast through the Badlands National Park. It was another postcard perfect weather day. Cobalt sky, few clouds, summer sun, dry breeze. Other than me trying to navigate out of Rapid City by looking at the map for Sioux Falls (duh!), the ride was easy once we got on the highway. Entrance to Badlands National Park was free using the senior pass I acquired at the Trails Interpretive Center in Casper. Again, I was amazed by the natural wonders on display in the park. Elaborate valleys and craggy peaks. Pull-outs along the road afforded ever changing views of the harsh, alien landscape that reminded me of the Grand Canyon. We suspected correctly that the gang would be riding through here in another day. I mentioned that there'd be a lot of stops as the riders passed through here. A peak at the Tour Journal confirmed this.

Pictures just can't capture scale. 

Colors a bit washed out by mid-day sun

After a couple hours, we pulled out of the park and headed west along I-90 back to Wall. There, we decided to take in Wall Drug. It's a notorious  mish-mash of trinket, leather goods, T-shirt, Jewelry, and souvenir shops...and not to mention free ice water. There's nothing else out here, so it's worth the visit to stretch your legs and catch a burger. (Check ✔and check ✔). 

 Store goes on for a couple blocks

Hall of taxidermy heads

As we pulled into Wall, we saw some of the faster riders pulling into the hotel they'd be staying that night. We resisted the temptation to go over and say "howdy". We had enough goodbye's already. Besides, they have work to do. Clean bike, laundry, post ride nutrition, showers, Route Rap, and dinner. The tour goes on...

Glad to have taken the day to come down from the routine of the tour. It was a good time to rehash some of our best rides, our hardest rides, and best memories while we glided along the interstate without pedaling. We topped the day off with a walk downtown, Rapid City, exploring the shops and having a decent Mexican dinner before heading back to hotel to prepare for our flights home.

Above Rapid City flying home

Final thoughts.

Although, not the "Epic" cross country ride of last year, only 21 days in the saddle, this ride was for me, a much richer experience. Maybe because I had the logistics nailed down, I was much less anxious at the start and end of each ride. Make no mistake, I did have a fair amount of concern about the climbing and distances. I did pull out all stops to get the business done. I worked and worked hard but enjoyed it so very much.

The efforts were amazing but so were the rewards. I've not climbed as hard for so long. Similarly, these were some of the most amazingly long descents I've ever experienced. I can't imagine I'll see these again. Some of my best memories of the ride were the views of Mt Hood, following the Columbia and Snake rivers, the Grand Tetons, the high desert areas, the fireworks over Jackson Hole and the climax of a hard ride to Mt Rushmore. Better still was coming to know a core group of interesting, smart, friends to share the experience with.

This year, I seemed to finish about an hour earlier each day, despite leaving an hour later each morning. Not sure I'm that much stronger a rider than last year, rather it's that I'm more focused on how to make the most of my riding time. I used time better at SAG stops. I stopped forgetting my gloves, helmet, or topping off water bottles. Small things seemed to make all the difference.

Riding in a pace line this year was easier and rather enjoyable when it was a manageable size (6 or so). Not that we spent much time doing it as we had such great weather, but alernating the pulling with the others was a good time.

This year's group was twice the size as last year's. It took a while to learn everyone's name but as time progressed, it wasn't an issue. It still surprises me how groups bond over just a few weeks. We did become a close group despite the numbers. I got to know a lot of new folks and will surely keep in touch with them as I do with last year's crew.

The people we met on the road and in the remote, small towns we passed through are big hearted, hard working, and friendly. Gives me hope for where we may be headed as a country. And seeing the country through the eyes of our Aussie and Britt friends on the ride was also such a treat. Their astonishment over the vast open plains was only a reinforcement of my own awe. When I asked them what they thought of our potential leadership, they said they had their own pack of characters back home.

What's next? I hope to be able to do another tour. It probably won't be next year. I'd like to go go across the Atlantic with Mike, but we'll see. If my bones and health will let me, I would jump at the chance to ride with another group soon. Where and for how long will be the big questions. I'm now following a friend from last year's tour who is riding from Paris to Moscow. He's currently in eastern Germany, soon to cross into Poland. My next adventure may be more modest. I figure I've ridden in 24 states. That leaves only 26 more to go...

What a Rush

Stats
74.1 miles
6437' climbing
13.3 Average moving speed (lot of slow climbing with hair-raising crosswinds literally blowing us off the road on downhills)
43.7 Maximum speed (0.3 below my all time MPH)

Highlights
Windy. Sometimes favorable. Sometimes treacherous. I got blown off the shoulder and down a slope. Luckily not into the road.
Felt like three separate rides today.
- Morning a bit humid with long gentle climb. Worked hard in good company of core team. Lots of Prairie Dogs. Damn, they're cute.
- Late morning ride up to Crazy Horse Monument and approach to Mt. Rushmore. Drier but much sharp uphill work with several blustery downhills.
- Spent an hour at Rushmore. Felt overwhelmed. It was my first time there and I got a bit emotional. Walked around, took pictures for several families visiting there (that was cool), and just sat and gazed in warm sun and cool breeze. Had a hot dog and Dr. Pepper. Enjoyed time with Mike and Angie from KY.
- Final 23 mile leg was spine tingling ride down from Mt Rushmore, several additional long climbs before final drop into Rapid City.

Spent time with Matt who ran his bike over to local shop to have it prepared for shipping home. At route rap, we got to address the group, wish them well and thank them for their friendship along the ride. Had dinner at a Ruby Tuesday's wth 5 others and spent time shaking a lot of hands.

Will get up to see the group off tomorrow morning. They're leaving late (8:30). Matt and I will rent a car and head out into the Badlands for a look around. Want to get home to my guys but sad to be parting ways with these remarkable people...

Ramshackle spread with horse

Purportedly a bike "Sculpture" but probably more of a Peloton wreck

I thought it was George in profile, but it's actually Crazy Horse. No. Didn't pay the $5 to ride to the front of the monument. It's unfinished and hasn't progressed any in the past 8 years.

 There's a Prairie Dog in there somewhere in upper left. Actually, a whole community mocking me by going down their burrows as soon as I pulled out my phone. Cheeky buggers. You can tell I've been hanging with the Brits on tour. It rubs off.

 Bad lighting but cool abandoned gas station

Bad B&B but with winter rates available...

Sneaking up on George and the boys from behind.

It's really quite a cool spot. And we got there on our bikes!

Yep. 

Hot time riding to Hot Springs

Stats:
94.3 miles
Moving Speed: 15.6 MPH (respectable)
Max speed: 36.7

Points of Interest:
Turned right at Mule Creek Junction.
Unmentioned 10 mile climb with crosswinds.
Hit the South Dakota State line.
(for Bruce who is on tour with us, that completes all 50 States where he's been on a bicycle. How cool!)
Outside town of Edgemont, we ran into a band of German Motorcyclists at our second SAG. They were on day 2 of a tour and complaining already about how hard crossing the country is. They were gobsmacked when they learned we were on day 20 and had about 30 more to go.

At mile 72.5 we started a 4 mile climb in glaring sun and high heat...a dry heat, but still...
At top of the climb, tour staff was there for topping off water bottles. I was really, really hot. I filled water bottles with ice and water and squirted it through the vents in my helmet. I instantly revived. Refreshed, we kicked off yet again.

At mile 88, another 1 mile climb. However the reward was a long descent into Hot Springs at mile 92.

At mile 94, DQ! Chili Cheese Dog, fries and chocolate shake. Awesome.

Mile 94.3 we hit the hotel. My room was ready! (Others not so lucky and had to wait).

Our band of 4 (Matt, John, Greg and I) started with cool temps and modest pace as I led the pack out of town. We sort of stayed together, dropping one rider stopping for photos, rejoining us later to have another rider fall back to enjoy some solitude and meditate on the remarkable rolling landscape. At the first SAG, Paul, a retired ABC anchor from Chicago, asked if he could ask me a few questions on camera. He wanted to get both Matt and my answers before we leave the tour on Monday.

"What was going through your mind when you were climbing the Teton Pass?"
Everything and nothing. I was pulling from every deep mental corner of my brain, the oxygen floating up long buried memories and impressions. They were fleeting like a flash card quiz as I had to keep coming back to "Breathe, breathe. Feed the muscles. Breathe! Despite the mental hit parade passing through, just keep breathing."

"Why do you do this?"
Because I am still physically able to do it and have the desire to reach some goal by stretching for it. I do have the time and I have the love and support of my partner and family. So many people never get the chance or take the time to use what they are given to go out and do something remarkable. To test their limits. To achieve what might seem impossible or crazy. Why wait around.

What I didn't say but what is probably closer to the core of it, is I really enjoy the intimacy. Of being alone on a bike surrounded by the silence of the landscape and listening to the breathing and rhythms of the effort. That's one intimacy. Another is the intimacy or camaraderie we share within the group all having a common purpose. Encouraging others on the days they struggle, knowing intimately what they are going through and sharing tips and tricks to help them get a bit further on.

It's hard to describe how a tribe of strangers slowly over a course of a couple weeks, comes to realize that we have something special shared among us.

Tomorrow is my last day on this tour. It has the most climbing so far, but it's shorter mileage wise - just 73 miles. We get to see the Black Hills, Wind Cave National Park, hopefully lots of Bison, Prairie Dogs, Th Crazy Horse Memorial and Mt. Rushmore. Wow. Although it wasn't as long as the LA to Boston ride, I made some great new friends, got to know some remarkable people and will miss them. However, I can't wait to get home, too.

Pictures will follow tomorrow as I need to get some sleep and it takes forever to upload them on slow WiFi.

Leaving Wyoming for South Dakota

 John from St Pete at state line

Also near state line

 Just a surprising overlook down on a valley of pine.

Guess where?

Casper to Lusk Wyoming

Distance: 107 miles.
Temps started at 62 ended in hell. Averge for day 89.5
Climbing: 3,224’
Average moving speed: 17.6 (Peppy!)
Maximum Speed: 36.6 (zippy!)

Had the Duck along for the ride today. Matt led out our team of four today. John, Greg, and I shared the lead up through the surprisingly close first SAG at mile 25. After a quick stop, we headed out again, with Pam, one of the tour leaders joining us. We entered Interstate 25 and rode the wide and clean shoulder for 14 miles before exiting.

The cool morning soon gave way to increasing temperatures under bright blue skies. On the gently rolling horizon we would often see Antelope grazing. The sparsely populated land was beginning to bake under the summer sun when we rolled into the town of Douglas. For some reason Douglas celebrates the Jackalope – its image is all over town with a giant sculpture near the center. The Duck posed for a picture there.

The sun was high in the sky when we pulled into the second SAG at mile 65. It was located at a Sinclair gas station so we could use the facilities and pick up a cool drink. Luckily there were shaded picnic tables that provide a break while we popped Tylenol, electrolyte tablets, and ate a quick snack. Just before heading back on the road, I re-slathered sun screen on my legs and face and filled my water bottles and Camelback with ice and water.

Like the previous 10 miles of road, the next 10 miles of road were cracked with a tar like caulk in the gap. Due to the strong sun, the caulk softened and if you ran in the filled rut, you could get “grabbed” by these tar snakes. Going forward required a bit of concentration and frequent course corrections. It didn’t look like this ride was going to anything more than hard, hot work.

Well, one of the fluffy clouds rolled above our path and pretty much followed us to the third SAG at mile 86. It was welcome relief and allowed us to keep a pretty strong and steady pace. Turning out to be a decent riding day after all. The shaded picnic table at this SAG let us cool down a bit more as we chowed down on oranges, apples, Frito’s, and Fig Newton’s.

Finish line in Lusk is just a mere 20 miles ahead. A little climbing but with luck, and shade from the clouds it should be doable. We got to the hotel around 2:15. Another awesome ride: Hot and hard, yet awesome.

We happen to be in town for Rawhide days. The Parade at 5:00 had a mix of horse drawn covered wagons, Ford Mustangs, Mac Trucks and trailers with candy thrown to the kids on the sidewalks. Suddenly, a whooping and hollering came from down the street. About a dozen bare-chested men on horseback with red toned skin came galloping up the street. It was a preview of the “Lusk Massacre” to be re-enacted at the fairground later tonight. Past my bedtime.

Tomorrow’s ride to Hot Springs will be another long (92 miles) hot day with more climbing. After that we ride to Rapid City which will be my last riding day on the tour. Again, having mixed emotions. Glad to be heading home soon but feeling like I’m leaving many new friends too soon.

Lost Springs, Wyoming. Population: 4

Duck at second SAG Saturday

Background: Peter, Cumberland, ME, "CD" from Scarborough, ME, and Nick from Chorleywood, Hertfordshire, Great Britain

Lot of Long Horns here in Cowboy country

 Leaving last SAG. Headed to Lusk, Wyoming

 Lemonade waiting for us at hotel.

Duck got a charge out of the 5 Tesla parking & charging stations at the hotel.

Start of Lusk "Rawhide Days" parade.

We sat on curbside in front of hotel.

It was a hoot to see kids chase ofter Tootsie Rolls thrown from floats

Quite a few vintage wagons and coaches went by...and it was hot - close to 100 at 5:00 PM.

The best part was when a band of "Indians" charged up the street. I guess it's a re-enactment of the Lusk Massacre. That's when an Indian Princess was killed by Lusk settlers and the Indians took revenge by attacking and skinning the settlers...

Rest day in Casper

The Duck. It's a rubber ducky that Fred from Onterio, Canada introduced at our first gathering. It is passed to a rider at Route Rap who has done something nice, smart, or had a terrible day. The responsibilities include taking pictures of the duck experiencing the sights along the riding day. Since tis duck has been to every continent except Antarctica, it is a big responsibility. At last Rap, John, from St. Pete, awarded it to Matt and I because he knew we were going to leave in another three days and he didn't want us to feel excluded. I agreed to take it on the day off if Mat would take it on the ride to Lusk. Ergo, the duck followed me to the Bike Shop, a walk downtown, on a trip to the National Historic Trails Interpretive Center (really well done museum on the westward migration to Oregon, Utah, and California).

We finished the day with Yoga session by the pool, and another trip downtown for Sushi and Thai food. 

Tomorrow is a 106 mile ride to Lusk, our last stop in Wyoming. We're expecting a challenging day with less than favorable winds and temps hitting triple digits. 

Duck waiting in hotel lobby for fellow travelers. 

Duck paying for a Casper Wyoming cycling gator and some recovery fuel

Sitting on horseless brass saddle downtown

Massive sculpture outside Trails Interpretive Center

Yoga and Therapeutic Massage Center in town.

Record Breaking Ride to Casper Wyoming

Stats:

119.64 miles - New personal one day record

2867' climbing

18.0 MPH average moving speed (Over 119 miles?! Crazy!!!)

35.7 MPH Max Speed

Knowing the day ahead had nearly 120 miles to cover, everyone was anxious to get out on the road as soon as possible. The early crew lit out around 6:00 as the sun came out and the rest of us soon after at 6:30. The climbing was so incremental over such a long distance that we sometimes hit 15 to 21 MPH going uphill. Sure on the sharper climbs which were few I did see the needle slip to 8 - 10 but compared to the 4 MPH going up the Teton Pass we were again flying. Thanks in no small part to awesome tail winds.

Early in the ride, Greg, John, Matt, and I wanted to keep a modest yet steady pace as the day would be a long one. Expecting some headwinds we also kept to a pace line taking turns pulling at the head of the line then dropping back to the end of the line to wait for our rotation to come up again. We chugged along for a good while being joined by one of the staff members, Liz. I stopped to pick up a water bottle dropped by one of our little band. Also taking the opportunity to pop a couple Tylenol and take a picture or two. Three of the band picked up the pace a bit with Matt and I dropping back to a less aggressive pace. Halfway to the first SAG we were joined by the couple from Sarasota (Joel and Sara). 

Setting out from the first SAG break, John, Craig, Matt and I regrouped and found ourselves pulling a pace line of 8 - 10 others. The four of us took rotations at the front pulling the rest of the train for a good 20 miles of more while the others drafted behind our little locomotive. About five miles from the second SAG, I couldn't get back in behind our group of four and had to slide all the way to the rear. Not a good place to be as the length of the line causes a rubber banding effect that amplifies the longer the train. I found myself working way too hard to close the gap only to have to brake as I caught up the the wheel in front of me. After surging and braking for a couple of miles, I just let the train move along and established a steady pace for myself and eventually pulled int the Second SAG maybe 2 minutes behind.

Not wanting to repeat the previous leg, Matt and I let the train pull away from the station. When we finally left the second SAG, the tour leader, Judy, who was riding today, asked if she could tag along. Three is better than 2 and way better than 10, so we were off. We had a great time and started flying as tail winds and downhills presented themselves. We were doing 25 to 30 on the flats without pushing hard and hit mid 30's in the long downhills...A few nights ago, I caught the opening sequence from 2001: A Space Odyssey, the one where the space ship was docking with the giant space station wheel to the tune of Blue Danube. That tune was running through my head as we glided with the massive blue sky above and the ribbon of highway rolled under us. Sounds corny but it's precisely the way to describe the near floating experience on the road today. It was a gift.

Third SAG popped up in no time and with The Blue Danube still running through my head we pulled into the hotel at 2:30. 119.6 miles. Stupefying time. And I could have done another 20 miles (mmmm....well, if I had to, that is. My rear end was really glad to be off the bike). 

Oh, And Matt and I got The Duck at route rap after dinner tonight. More on that tomorrow. Tomorrow is a rest day in Casper. We've covered some 1,300 miles and climbed 48,000 feet. That's like pedaling up Mt Katahdin 6 times.

Above: Rode with arm wamers/coolers all day today.

Saves on sunscreen and kept me really comfortable.

Picture is actually from yesterday's ride into Riverton.

Below: Second SAG stop was at he only open "Gas Station, Convenience Store, Bar..." between Riverton and Casper Wyoming. It is pretty sparse out here. Pictures are from inside. Can't make this stuff up. Walls covered in business cards, pictures from visitors, and other oddities. My eyes couldn't process it all. The center cartoon bubble below was a hoot.

Below: At mile 75 today, just off the main road, we came cross this interesting photo op. Years ago, the Indians drove herds of Bison over the cliffs...you may be able to read more detail from sign. 

I tried to capture the chasm with my phone but the picture below just doesn't really look like much.

Below: Shot of River off the bike path just before we reached hotel for second rest day.

Another Blue Danube moment.